Showing posts with label rugged terrain. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rugged terrain. Show all posts

03 March 2014

Skirting The Crinoline (Mt Ligar)


Breakfast Creek - The Crinoline - Long Hill - and back
3rd-Mar-2014 (written by Allan)

This walk began as a 3 day plan to climb from Breakfast Creek, on the Tamboritha Road, north of Licola, to the top of Mt Ligar (The Crinoline) and then to do a ridge-following loop to Mt Tamboritha, via Long Hill  and then back to Breakfast Creek.  The original plan was abandoned in the face of low water, difficult terrain and warm weather, to become a two night stay on the slopes of Mt Ligar.
The signpost & a warning sign at the start on the Tamboritha Rd
Day 1 (22nd Feb 2014)
The climb to Mt Ligar begins at the signposted track on Tamboritha Rd, just before it crosses the Breakfast Creek and to the south of the Melbourne Grammar School camp.  This is at 37°31' S, 146°37' E (or H55 04 660 E 58 477 N in UTM Grid on WGS84 from memory-map Interactive Topo).  As well as the signpost, there is a “warning” sign, pointing out the hazards of the “remote area” and the fact that the climb involves an ascent of 800m (2500ft) to the peak of The Crinoline.   
The older Crinoline Track leaves the Breakfast Creek camp site and goes north on the east side of Breakfast Creek and is reputed to be a killer climb, straight up the south-side spur of Castle Hill and then across a ridge to Mt Ligar.  This path “straight to the top” is now deprecated, and the Macmillan Walking Track is preferred.       
The Macmillan Walking Track starts with easy ups and downs, going NNW along the Breakfast Creek and then west along the north side of an east-west running tributary of the Breakfast Creek.  This uses westerly-travelling, 1 in 10 zig-zags to ascend steadily from the 330m at the start to 830m at the end of this section.
Breakfast Creek (left).  Rest stop on the steep zig-zag climb

The track then heads north again and rises steeply to about 900m elevation.  From here, the track diverts north from the Macmillan Walking Track, past a “Smith St”sign, a campsite (the first official site) and a rain-water barrel (as talking to others at the roadside camp though, the consensus was that there was no water at the top).  The barrel is at H55 04 641 E  58 492 N and it did have some rather murky green water in it.  Not very healthy-looking, so we decided to locate better water first.  The best possibility for water appeared to be a creek and waterfall to the east of the “official” camp-sites, south of Long Hill and north of Mt Ligar.
Crinoline & McMillans tks junction and another 200m NNE is the rain-water barrel

The track then climbs another 150m, with yet more zig-zags, up the side of a spur, through rocky outcrops, open fields and light bush, to a height of 1050m at the end of the southern spur of Mt Crinoline.  This part of the track gives great views of Mt. Sugarloaf.

Mt Sugarloaf (left).  A foot pad north to the zig-zag climb NNE

Good view of Mt Sugaloaf to the south

Note: some maps show there is a Macmillan Walking Track from Breakfast Creek to Mt Sugarloaf and a Macmillan Track from Mt Tamboritha to Breakfast Creek and an alternative Macmillan Track from the Macmillan Walking Track to Mt Tamboritha via Mt Ligar (The Crinoline) and Long Hill.  All designed to totally confuse the walker (and possibly myself as well).  The signage we saw appears to show that the track from Breakfast Creek to Mt Sugarloaf is the “official” Macmillan Walking Track now.   

As we had started at 12.30pm, it was getting late by the time we got to the top of this spur and so we cleared a campsite in the middle of the track and settled in for the night.
 
Camping on the main spur to Mt Ligar
Day 2  (23rd Feb 2014)  

The track continued along from our campsite, along a narrow and rocky ridge, with lots of rock-hopping, and climbing for about 15minutes to get to an "official" campsite at the south-side of The Crinoline (the 2nd official campsite).
 
Rock-hopping on the narrow & rocky ridge

 
Heading for Mt Ligar

 
The plan to camp here had been missed! 

We continued on the foot-pad north (when we could find it), that traversed the west side of The Crinoline, following one of the edges of the rock cliffs that give The Crinoline its unique appearance.  It is important to plan ahead here, to pick a contour line across these cliffs so that you don’t get trapped by a cliff-face or a steep creek gully.  There is no clear, single track here, but there are lots of similar pads across the west-side cliffs of The Crinoline, that all achieve approximately the same outcome of a path to the north spur.

The west-side cliff edges of Mt Ligar

Great Dividing Range & Macalister State Forest to the northwest (right)

By the time we reached the north-end spur of the Crinoline, the weather was getting warm and the terrain was getting very rocky, so we decided to ditch the full packs at the unofficial campsite, at the base of the northern spur and proceed to the “official” campsite on the south-side of Long Hill, with day-packs only, loaded with water bottles.

The pad north from here is rocky and undulates about 20-50m vertically.  The best plan is to just keep to the ridge and the pad, when you can find it.  Cairns sometimes help to find the best way through. It is navigable but not for the beginner.  

   The Crinoline from Long Hill


Colourful snowgums (L).  The lookout near the LHC campsite

 
The Crinoline from the lookout (left).  The "official" LHC campsite 

When the “official” camps-sites were reached, we headed east, down an indistinct pad to the waterfall supply creek and, hopefully, water.    

No such luck!  The waterfall head creek was “as dry as.”  An exploratory dig into the creek-bed, down about 15 centimetres and a short wander up and down the creek-bed, showed no sign of increasing moisture either.

 
Back with empty water bottles!

There was nothing for it but to go back to our packs at the north of The Crinoline and have a rather “dry” night at that site using the remaining water we had hauled up the mountain.

 Evening views of Mt Ligar from the unofficial north-sude camp

Sunset over the Goulbourn & Macallister SFs

Day 3  (24th Feb 2014) 

At dawn, we de-camped at about 0730 and retraced our steps (sort-of) back to the Crinoline south-side camp, in the cool morning air and the shade of Mt Ligar, aiming for the now, very attractive, rain-water barrel. 

 Early morning views from camp.

Sunrise over Long Hill

Early packing to catch up with a change in weather conditions

The Sugarloaf from the zig-zag descent

When we got to the first south-side camp at 1115, we rigged up a water scoop from our safety rope and a drinking mug, to get the water out of the bottom of the metre high, 200 litre barrel.  This retrieved the rather greenish rainwater in 100ml scoops.  This was then sterilized by either boiling or steri-tabs, to give us a fluid breakfast-lunch of soups, bread and coffee, to gradually rehydrate us.  

Thank-you so much to the park keepers for having the foresight to place this barrel where it is.  If it had not been there, then the walk would have to have been aborted on the second day, for safety.  Hopefully the water we took was replaced by the rain that fell later that day.

 Back track down and down ..

Once we had replenished our lost water, at about 1250 we started to retrace our path down the hill.  We knew from the weather forecast that it would get stormy after 1430 so we made sure that the bulk of the descent was completed before it clouded over.  We reached the Tamboritha Road where the car was parked, at 1530, and headed for a good wash at a nearby water-hole, on the Tamboritha Road.  As we prepared to wash, the heavens opened, so we had a refreshing shower and bath combination, before commencing the long journey back to Melbourne.

GPS route & elevation profile of The Crinoline Path overlaid on Google Earth

 The Crinoline Path overlaid on VICmap & memory-map Topo 
References:
Printed Maps:
     -     SVmaps  Tali Karng-Moroka - Bushwalking 1:50 000
     -     e-Maps    Vicmap & memory-map 1:25 000 Scale  Topo maps 
            also for use on android phone
     -     Guidebook - "Bushwalks in the Victorian Alps" by Glenn van der Knijff
            See Walk 30 - Southern Peaks (The Crinoline & Long Hill)

Conclusions:  

The Crinoline ascent alone is a tough climb for a sixty year old in warm weather, with a full three day pack and lots of water.  (6 kms horizontal and 800m vertical). Our original “plan” of 30 kms horizontal and 3000m vertical walking was way too ambitious for 3 days and even more unrealistic, because water is so scarce up there, at present.

I would suggest that other hikers are not too optimistic about their capabilities in this area, even if they have alternative plans.  The rough rule of thumb that says to plan to walk only 8-12 km per day of full pack carrying and count every 100m climbed or descended as an extra kilometre walked.  This rule works well for for older people of average ability.  Fit youngsters and other super-persons may be able to do more, but their performance should not be used as a planning benchmark.

There are little or no significant sources of fresh stream water in the Victorian Alps at present (Mar-2014). This may change if we have good rains this winter.  Currently, you must carry all the water you are going to need for any journey into the Victorian Alps, unless you are absolutely sure that there is a dam, tank, spring or known perennial stream that can refurbish your water supply along the way.

Adequate water supply is going to add 2 kg per day to your backpack weight (plus 700gm for food) so it puts a very real limit on just how far you can walk into the Victorian wilderness, without significant risk to life and health.

1.5 litres of water per day is really not enough, for safety, at the end of summer in Victoria.  You really do need 2 litres per day to remain healthily hydrated, especially if pushing the climbing or distance limits, as well.  Make sure you do the math before you leave to ensure the walk meets all safety criteria and your abilities and always have a “Plan B” and an escape “Plan C” ready to go, at any time that adversity thwarts your primary plan.   

Safe walking!

Allan Peace  

About Myself:

I am a 60 year old male, born in Rugby, Warwickshire, England, and emigrated to Australia as the son of a “ten pound pom” in 1963.    I trained as an Electronics Engineer at Melbourne University and specialized in communications and then worked with the Philips/Simoco/Comgroup organisation in Melbourne, designing two way radios and the associated support systems for taxis, trucks fire, police and ambulances, before the advent of the now-ubiquitous mobile phones and wireless internet.  My amateur callsign is VK3ZON although have not been active for some years 

My later career involved digital radio design (P25 and DMR).  So I was a sort of Jack-of-all-Trades in computer control, radio hardware, audio and radio signal processing, and radio system design.   I am now retired.  

I have been bushwalking on and off since I was in the scouts in the late 60s and I started camping and caravanning in the late 50s (at age 6).  I am also able to cross country and downhill ski on intermediate terrain.  I have had photography as a hobby from box-brownies to megapixel sensors and from MQ developer to Photoshop.  I also know enough about GPS, surveying and navigation to get me into trouble.  

I plan on doing some local travelling, photography and walking in my retirement, before the old body gives up, as well as indulging my many other hobbies.  

I have known Dzung for about 10 years now, first assisting with her computer and photography problems and then later, joining her for some of her less challenging walks. Hopefully, we can continue sharing walks, hobbies and knowledge for some time to come.

01 January 2014

Genoa River Gorge

4 days 3 nights, medium grade

Location:  500 kms east of Melbourne, East Gippsland.
Closest town:  Cann River (about 38 kms) with a nice campground & caravan park
Best time to explore:  Dry days and low water level
River Condition:  0.6m as Bureau of Meteorology’s forecast. 
Yambulla Peak Walking Track:  Well-defined track
Walk registration is not applied
Compass:  Not really needed, mainly following the river down & upstream
GPS:  Optional
Maps:  Vicmap and Online Memory-Map Topo
Guidebook:  Take a Walk in Victoria’s National Parks
Parks Victoria Park Notes: www.parkweb.vic.gov.au


Day 1: Yambulla Peak Track to Genoa River, 14.5 kms, 6 to 7 hours

The day started with the packing of food for 3 breakfasts, 3 dinners and 4 lunches.  Careful preparation was needed due to a forecast of showers and rain for the last two days, which would be a day trip to northern gorge and the day of walking out from the river to the starting point.  We had a visit to Beehive Falls on the drive to the start of the walk, which was about 9.5kms away and situated on the “WB Line” road with access to this road from the Monaro Hwy

Beehive Falls


After leaving the carpark, passing a gate (at height of 429m) and the park’s box containing survey forms, the track started to climb.  We went through two hills at 497m & 541m height, then dropped down to a forested gully.  A steep climb up took us near the highest point (683m) on the track, where we stopped for lunch with good views of the range on the left.

Yambulla Peak Track

From here, the track was mostly down with a few ups.  After lunch, we met 2 DSE staff, who were in an all-terrain vehicle and on their way back after a check on the track and the Genoa River conditions.  We were relieved to hear that the water level was low enough for crossing and exploring the banks of the river.  After driving off, they had fun tackling the steep slope we had just come down.  We continued over ups and downs, past some granite boulders and had a clear view of Mt Coopracambra and the range through the trees on the left.  

Photo stop

The last section of the Yambulla Peak Track was a steep downhill to a small creek.  We crossed the creek then followed an over-grown pad to reach the banks of the Genoa River.  It was about 6.30pm, when we arrived at the junction and found that the water was a bit high and so decided to search for a small piece of lawn to pitch up tent on this side.  It took us about 6 hours plus stops to get here, not the 5 hours mentioned in the guidebook.  At this stage, we were unsure whether to move camp the next day.  We had couscous and salmon for tea.  Custard and dried fruit was the desert for my companion, while I had cappuccino.  It got dark about 8.40pm.

 A little "garden" found near the junction of YPT & Genoa River 

Day 2:  Exploring part of Southern Gorge with a day pack

It was a sunny morning and at the crossing spot, the river bottom could be seen.  As forecast by BOM, the level of water was 0.6m; about knee-high.  With our Crocs, we crossed the river without difficulty and our boots were hung in front of us.  After crossing to the opposite bank, we put on our boots and built a small rock cairn to mark the position of the Crocs for the return.  A GPS waypoint of this location was also recorded.  We then scouted for a possible campsite and quickly identified one on the sandy bank.  My companion was not keen on camping on sand; therefore, the thought of moving was abandoned.

 
 The crossing, where the YPT meets the Genoa River

The walk mainly followed the river down stream involving rock hopping and rock scrambling.  If the river bank was too scrubby to bash through and the water level was not high, an easy way to make progress was to wade.  I enjoy wading.

Exploring down stream

 If low water level, go for it!

Waterfalls

The going was slow.  It took us 1 hour to complete 1km.  About 1.4 km from the crossing, we spotted an overhanging cave on the opposite bank; so we stopped for a photo.  At this point, the water was high and the scrub was thick and so we had a bit of hard time to get through the scrub. Then, around the bend, we waded on a sandy river bed with knee-high water to go across and walked on a large sandbank to reach the southern gorge.  From here, we bush bashed a bit then went across a small cascade to reach the other bank, where we looked for a sheltered spot on a big flat boulder for lunch.  We got out the billy to boil water for soup.

An overhanging cave on the opposite bank
Approaching Genoa Southern Gorge
 
Lunch with gorge view

After lunch, we continued on the right bank, which involved some rock hopping for about 100m until we reached the mouth of the Yambulla Creek.  Then, a little later we approached the end of the first section of the Southern Gorge.  At this point, we decided to turn around and retraced our steps back to the cairn.  Collecting the crocks, we crossed the river and headed back up to the campsite.  There was a pretty sunset over Southern Genoa River that evening.

The mouth of Yambulla Creek
Turnback point
A section of the river filled with boulders

We were hold up by this guy near the mouth of Yambulla Creek

then, it freezed and/or posed.

Rock-hopping & scrub-bashing on the way back

Not far now, so it was time for a rest.  These gaiters, a New Year gift to me.

Sunset on the Southern Genoa River Gorge.

Day 3:  Exploring Northern Gorge 

We were rather confident with the river crossing today after the two river crossings and lots of wading yesterday.  Unlike yesterday’s downstream walk, today we followed the river upstream.  It was a bit cloudy and it seemed that the river level was lower and so the going was less demanding.  We did more wading along the edge of the river to avoid scrub bashing

Heading upstream from the track & river crossing point

 Low water noticed on a boulder-filled section of the river

Crossing from side to side 

At a large bend, on the bank of the river, my presence woke up a black snake and while trying to move away from it, I lost balance and had a fall onto slippery rocks.  As a result, I had bruising and swelling of my hand and fingers.  Not far from that, on a dry overflow, I spotted another creature (it was likely another snake) fleeing quickly, when it heard us coming

Cherry tree? in scrub near the river bank

We had lunch on a large rocky slab.  While the stove was turned on, I had a quick dip in the river to fresh up before continuing the exploration.  Based on the GPS UTM grid reference and the rock band of a few huge boulders across the river, I was pretty sure that we were at the state border.  And also, based on the walk guide book, there should be a cairn located somewhere on the west bank

View back to the lunch spot

The Victoria and NSW border

After lunch, it started to shower lightly.  We continued on about 100 m until we reached a few pools and decided to turn around.  On the way back, we caught sight of a possible cairn on the other side of the river.  When close to the lunch spot, we noticed 2 snakes coiling up about 1m away from each other near the river bank.  Back at the lunch spot, I crossed the river with the hope that what I had recently seen was what we had been searching for.  Finally, we found a pile of rocks, that were likely to be the cairn!  From here on, we had to wear light rain gear until reaching the campsite, where my tarp was put into good use for dinner preparation.  After meal, we called it the day.

 We turned back at this point in light rain jackets

 Snake territory near the border

The two snakes spotted near the boulder in the middle of this photo

 "The border cairn"

"Our cairn"

Wild flowers

A boulder-filled section of the Genoa River on the way back

There was a small gap between the tent and the tarp.  
Wonder if any lite & reasonably-priced tarp, fitted to the Moondance 2 tent.

Day 4:  Back to the start, 14.5 kms, 6 to 7 hours.

We started an hour earlier than the day we walked in.  Having walked the well-defined Yambulla Peak Track, I did not bother to put on the gaiters.  The day was a bit warm, coupled with the length and the many uphills and downhills of the track, it was a rather tiring day for us.  Hence, we felt great relief when the survey box near the gate was in sight.  It took almost the same time as the walk-in.

Genoa River Gorge Walk view with GE

I then had a quick dip in the Genoa River East Branch near the Highway before continuing the drive to Cann River in order to catch up with cold beer, pub meal and a campsite.  Luckily, the campground, which used to be a caravan park, was not very crowded and the booking could be arranged through the pub.  The fee for two people was very reasonable and I would recommend it to those, who want to camp with basic facilities.

 The drive out via the WB Line

En route back from the Genoa Gorges Walk, POIs, we had a short visit to, will be here soon.